S

Adult acne is most often associated with stress and hormonal imbalance, but how can you tell the difference? “Acne caused by stress or hormones can look very similar, but a good way to tell them apart is when the breakout is happening,” Goldfaden says. 

First off, hormonal breakouts occur seven to 10 days before your menstrual cycle begins, he notes. If you’re not in this time frame, then it may be caused by stress—or another factor listed in the next section. 

“Hormonal and stress acne can appear similar; however, hormonal acne will usually be deeper and more nodular and may be painful as the nodules do not come to the surface. Stress acne forms papules or pustules—which are superficial,” he adds.

So yes, it could be stress triggering an episode of breakouts. That being said, there are plenty of other, more common causes of this complex skin condition that will make you more susceptible to stress-induced pimples. 

Here are a few factors to consider:

• Genetics: If your parents had acne, you might be predisposed to it as well—especially when it comes to adult acne, studies show2. What’s more, genetics play a role in how your immune system works3 as well as your risk for hormonal conditions like polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS), which has been known to cause acne. 
• Hormones: Speaking of hormones, that’s another major player in the world of acne, especially for 20-somethings and women going through menopause. So much so, that “adult acne” and “hormonal acne” are often used in the same context. Even if you never had acne as a kid and your genetics are clear, you could still develop acne later in life, research demonstrates4. You can also see a spike in hormonal breakouts when beginning or weening off of hormone therapy or hormonal birth control. 
• Diet: When it comes to diet and acne, there are two main factors to consider: dairy and sugar. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), a low glycemic index diet may lead to fewer pimples. In another study, a strong link between cow’s milk and acne was found5.  
• Pore-clogging products: If you have acne-prone skin, you’ll want to be mindful of what ingredients are in your skin care and avoid any potentially pore-clogging additions (popular ones include coconut oil and beeswax). Simply run your product’s full ingredient list (this can generally be found online) through a pore-clogging ingredients checker like this one from Acne Clinic NYC.  
• Bacteria: If you’re already prone to breakouts, you’ll need to be extra mindful of washing everything that touches your face—and often. This includes your hands, towels, pillowcases, makeup brushes, face masks, etc. Otherwise, the bacteria will accumulate on those surfaces, spread to your skin, and potentially cause a breakout. 

As plenty of dermatologists will tell you, salicylic acid is one of the best ingredients for managing breakouts. This ingredient is a type of exfoliant known as a beta-hydroxy acid or BHA, which is different from an alpha-hydroxy acid, or AHA. 

“Salicylic acid is oil-soluble and is able to penetrate deeper into the pores compared to AHAs,” board-certified dermatologist Anar Mikailov, M.D., FAAD, founder of KP Away, said about the ingredient.

SA can even penetrate deep into the pores to help remove dirt, oil, and excess sebum. Hence, why so many acne products contain salicylic acid (or its natural form, willow bark extract) as one of the first ingredients. 

Opt for a wash-off product like The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Acne + Pore Cleanser or a serum like the Naturium Salicylic Acid Serum 2%. 

If you’re not already using retinol in your skin care routine, you may want to consider adding it. You can go for over-the-counter retinol (like one of these top picks), or visit your dermatologist to learn about prescription-grade options if your acne won’t budge. 

After retinol interacts with the skin’s receptors, it beneficially alters the genes involved with inflammation and cell growth. This reduces the formation of microcomedones6, or skin pores clogged with sebum, bacteria, and dead skin cells. 

You should never use retinol and salicylic acid at the same time but rather opt for salicylic acid in the morning and retinol at night, or just one of them at night and rotating by the day. This is also called skin cycling, which you can read all about here, if you’re curious. 

3.

Skip pore-clogging products. 

To ensure your skin care and makeup products aren’t working against you, run them through the pore-clogging ingredients checker. Not every single ingredient listed on these scanners is guaranteed to clog your pores, but there’s definitely a higher chance they could. 

If you’ve used the same skin care products for years without a problem, then this might not be it. However, if you’ve just got a new product or you’re noticing skin texture (small, tiny pimples on the skin), then it’s better to double-check. 

4.

Use anti-inflammatory ingredients. 

Strong active ingredients like salicylic acid and retinol are great for easing breakouts, but they also can dry out the skin. Luckily, you can compensate by adding hydration back into your complexion via hydrating serums and moisturizers. 

When looking for a hydrating serum, opt for something simple like the Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid. For moisturizers, start your search with this curated list of moisturizers formulated for oily skin. 

Acne facials can help treat active breakouts, prevent future ones from happening (in part), and deeply hydrate the skin. These treatments often include extractions to unclog pores as well as targeted topical treatments with exfoliating ingredients like salicylic acid. 

An esthetician might also incorporate LED light therapy: specifically, blue LED light, which kills acne-causing bacteria, controls sebum regulation, and soothes the skin; or green LED light, which is hailed for reducing hyperpigmentation and calming redness. 

Not everyone should book these facials, though. In fact, those with cystic acne aren’t the best candidates for acne facials and should instead spend that time (and money!) visiting a dermatologist instead. 

7.

Visit your derm for prescription solutions. 

Say you’ve exhausted all of your possible over-the-counter options for acne and nothing has worked—don’t fret too much. If you have access to a dermatologist, it’s worth the trip. These professionals can help you pinpoint possible triggers for your acne and offer other treatment options you may not have tried. 

These include topical prescriptions (like stronger retinoids) or oral medications such as spironolactone (used off-label for hormonal acne treatment) or isotretinoin (formerly known as Accutane). 

Again, no matter what triggers your acne in the first place (products to hormones to genetics, and more), stress can make it worse. Relieving stress when you’re breaking out isn’t exactly easy, given that more pimples often cause more stress. 

However, taking a bit more time to focus on your mental health can help. Here are a few ways to ease the stress you may consider: 

2.

Get a full night’s sleep. 

3.

Meditation or mindfulness.

Meditation has been shown to reduce stress and anxiety8. Some people shy away from meditation because they assume they wouldn’t like it, but meditation is a versatile practice that can be tweaked and trimmed to fit your unique needs and practice. 

Don’t like silent meditation? Opt for something guided. Only have a few minutes? That’s better than nothing. The important thing is that you dedicate a few minutes each day to allowing your brain to relax and just focus on yourself. 

“Physical activity stimulates various brain chemicals that may leave you feeling happier and more relaxed. You may also feel better about your appearance and yourself when you exercise regularly, which can boost your confidence and improve your self-esteem,” Goldfaden says. 

“Regular movement also helps to increase overall circulation, which leads to a more even and radiant complexion,” he adds. Long story short—movement is great for the skin, no matter how you choose to do it. 

6.

Take care of yourself during these tough times.

One thing that people often overlook on this topic is the fact that periods of stress often coincide with focusing on the problem at hand and thus, abandoning everything else going on in your life—on a less serious note, this could mean your skin care routine or drinking enough water.

Of course, you should tend to your stressors first and foremost, but if you’re going to enter a period of extended stress or you find yourself in one right now (like finals week, a family event, relationship trouble, job hunting, etc.), try to make a boundary for yourself and commit to your daily skin care routine, if at all possible (a few more cups of water included). 

Keeping up with your regular routine not only will help prevent stress breakouts, but it will also give you a few minutes of dedicated you-time every day, which is much-needed during those anxious times.